Discussion in ' Engine ' started by HerishiJul 15, Messages: HerishiJul 15, Messages: 1, More likely to be your turbo than the sensor I'm afraid. Auto-mobileJul 15, I've checked that the vanes money freely and the actuator seems OK. Hence my original question do you know where the back pressure sensor is. Messages: 8, The more i read I only got the back pressure sensor fault on mine with no issues with the turbo actuator so hopefully just a bit of crap dislodged when I floored it an blocked the Ex.
HerishiJul 16, Messages: 2, OneForTheRoadJul 9, OneForTheRoadJul 11, Kosterkille likes this. Messages: 1. KosterkilleJan 28, You must log in or sign up to reply here.
OM642 exhaust pressure sensor
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SLacKer Original Poster 2, posts months. Got a code on my ML relating to operation of the wastegate solenoid and was wondering if anyone knows whether this is the solenoid It has the purple mark on it and is on the exhaust side of the turbo.
exhaust back pressure sensor S211 V6
If it is do you know what spanner size this is I am thinking somewhere in the low 20s. If anyone knows the part number that would be great as well. The item in the picture your referring to with the purple spot is an exhaust back pressure sensor. I've tried looking up the fault code you've listed but it doesnt seem to come up for the W ML.
Are you sure this is the fault code your code reader is giving you. If i find out any more info i'll let you know.
Is that the black plastic box on the left with the blue paint on it? I could go straight to Garrett for the part surely. The turbo wastegate actuator is the item on the left with the blue paint mark as i look at the picture you've supplied. You can try contacting Garrett directly but i doubt if you'll have much success.
About 2 years ago the electronic wastegate actuator packed up on my turbo fitted to my Jaguar. It was about a 2 minute job to remove it but after numerous phone calls trying to source a replacement actuator i had no joy.
I was told that even if i tried taking an actuator of another turbo the chances are it would not work properly. It would solve a lot of problems if you could as i know of many manufacturers who suffer the same problem.
If you have any success in finding a replacement actuator let us know as it will be worth noting for future reference. Old post but thought I would update. I had driven around the issue for a quite some time and finally took the turbo off the car and cleaned it with a product specifically designed for cleaning the vane mechanism.
I did not take the turbo apart at that time and putting it all back together the car improved greatly but could still slip into limp mode if you pulled away with a few revs more than it liked.
So took it off again having found a turbo specialist not to far away and took it to him. He took the exhaust housing off and cleaned the surface where the vane mechanism sits.
It had become pitted and collected carbon crud from the exhaust causing the vanes to bind a bit. He was going to fit a new vane mechanism but said mine was fine and it would be a waste of money. He also checked the actuator and that was working fine.
The car is no restored to its former glory with no more limp. So a lot cheaper than a recon and a hell of a lot cheaper than a new turbo. Hi guys i dont want to hijack the thread but i wonder if i may ask a few questions?
I have a ML cdi which is experiencing a limp mode issue, if you give it some heavy acceleration the car seems to splutter and go into limp mode, although no warning lights are present. If it is turned off and restarted it seems fine again Now after a little research it turns out although you dont seem to be able to buy the actuator it can be repaired, so a full turbo is no longer required, obviously merc wouldnt offer this, its a complete unit only.
I guess one question i have is how difficult is it to remove the turbo as i would be considering removing it and having it overhauled and as previously mentions possibly cleaned?
Any help or advice is much appreciated. Hi not sure if they would have parts for your turbo but you could try Darkside developments, they have vast stocks of parts not normally available from the main agents. The turbo is time consuming to remove.
The main issue is the fact it is at the back of the engine so the manifold bolts are out of sight.Original Poster. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 The car has covered k miles and its been properly maintained with quality service used parts. Since this video has been made i have replaced a remanufactured turbo it drove fine for about 20 miles but smoked a few times and i could hear some sort of grinding noise and jerky gear change but no engine warning light or error message till today Engine Management light popped up.
Once you stop, turn the engine off for a little while and restart the problem goes away but comes back after car has warmed up some time later. I would really appreciate if someone can help me with this or put me in the right direction. My location is Manchester UK. Are you sure your DPF Filter isn't blocked also was it the correct turbo you had fitted? Paddymcc posts months. Had a similar issue before which was a pressure sensor failure in the dpf exhaust section.
Stegel 1, posts months.
Diagnosing Cranking No Start Conditions with OM642 Diesel Engine
My CLS k miles very occasionally perhaps twice a year exhibits the flat, no acceleration fault although it can be made to accelerate by changing down manually which, like your car, disappears when turned off and on. I just live with it, given how infrequently it occurs, but research suggests it may be caused by the exhaust back pressure sensor - I will swap it over one day as it is pretty inexpensive. The inlet port shut down motor also dies on these engines as it lives beneath a poor oil seal in the inlet tract that drips oil on it, which produces similar "flat" performance but the code this produces is pretty distinctive although escapes me now and from memory the description doesn't tally with the ones you gave given.
Early OM engines had problems with exhaust manifolds breaking up internally and destroying the turbo. I had the exhaust manifolds changed as a precaution - did the removed turbo show any damage internally that could be due to this?
If so, and the manifolds are steadily breaking up, you could have damaged the new one. As the previous poster said, are you sure it is the correct turbo? Was the actuator changed as well - these need to be programmed to suit the turbo. We also run a E CDI - this whistled when my wife's steady driving allowed the vanes to clog up - on the advice of the MB mobile technician, turbo cleaner and an Italian tune up cured that.
It could be your car has a few issues, so I'm afraid it is a process of elimination. I suggest getting it on a Star machine for diagnosis as generic code readers don't necessarily pinpoint the problem. MB Tech Warrington have a decent reputation. Give them a call. You can guess all you like until the cows come home, but you need someone with STAR who knows what they're doing.Please Contact Us Today! I do understand that is most possibly a company policy but then they also should refuse providing the part.
I did expect a little bit more help from a company with this amount of positive feedback.
Verified purchase: Yes Condition: new Sold by: mercedesbenzofn Just check the exhaust pressure is reaching the sensor. Replaced the sensor, and the car drives like new again. Skip to main content. Email to friends Share on Facebook - opens in a new window or tab Share on Twitter - opens in a new window or tab Share on Pinterest - opens in a new window or tab. Watch this item. This seller is currently away, and isn't processing orders at this time.
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Get the item you ordered or your money back. Seller information mercedesbenzofnewcastle Contact seller. Visit Shop. See other items MoreUnfortunately, these problems rarely come with relevant DTCs.
Inspect the mass airflow sensors. A sooty tailpipe indicates the DPF has failed. Think about the problem, what types of things could cause a no start on a diesel vehicle?
What do diesels need to run and start? Fuel, Heat, Air, Timing. What are we missing? Hook the Autologic up and do a complete vehicle scan, record the scan and do not clear any faults yet.
Verify the drive authorization immobilizer system is allowing the engine to start. What is it that ignites Diesel? Is it compression? If the engine is cranking too slowly the heat from compression will dissipate before the fuel can ignite.
The engine uses a complex Glow system to aid starting as well. Run the Diagnostic Test via actuations in the Glow Module and check the fault codes, failure of the glow system can cause hard starting and no start conditions particularly in cold weather. Note: The Glow Module is a common failure item and the typical cause is a shorted glow plug, it is best to replace all the glow plugs as a set with the module.
Also, the Glow Module sometimes shorts out the LIN bus which is internally bridged to the alternator LIN inside the CDI module, when this happens, some bizarre electronic problems can occur including a no start condition, unplug the module to quickly check if it is causing a problem. Is the engine cranking too slowly? Are we getting good crankshaft and camshaft position signals and synchronizing the injectors? Check the cranking speed, if it is less than rpm diagnose the starting system: Battery, Starter, Voltage drops.
A good cranking speed also indicates the crankshaft position sensor is working. Use the relative compression test to check for a cylinder balance problem, 7 rpm difference is the spec. You can also use a scope to check the relative compression and battery health via the amperage waveform, or an amp clamp to check starter current draw.
There could be a blown fuse or defective starter relay. Generally, it overheats the starter solenoid and chances are high that the solenoid will break when the cable is changed so sell them both. Compression could be low but even across the engine, the only way to know would be a manual compression test.
We have to make choices in our diagnostic approach based on how much time and effort testing takes and what the probability of it being useful is. In this case, pulling a glow plug that might break in the cylinder head to check compression doesn't seem necessary or worthwhile.
If the engine timing was bad enough to interfere with starting, we would probably have a code. For reference: the compression for For The engine uses two mass airflow sensors but their reading is combined into one PID. The MAF sensors are rarely a problem, if you unplug one at a time you should see the same reading as when the other is unplugged. Check the pressure sensors KOEO; intake air, charge air, and exhaust back pressure.
Both new sensors were supplied by an MB dealer. I wondered if perhaps the connector might have been the problem, so before fitting the third sensor, I tried cleaning the connector terminals with a switch cleaner. Now at 45K miles, the mil light has come on with the same fault P However, the engine appears to run normally and I have managed to clear the fault with my TorquePro App.
Should the fault return, I will try cleaning up the contacts again and checking the wiring. It may just be co-incidence, but the fault seems to occur shortly after replacing a glowplug, or more recently, the glowplug module.
Has any other owner experienced problems with this sensor? I haven't had problems with any other sensor. When I bought the first replacement, I caught sight of the inventory screen on the sales desk and noticed that more than 2, of these sensors had been sold in the previous 12 months and that the type numbers had changed several times within this period.
WightyApr 8, BotusApr 8, Thanks for the replies. It is encouraging to note that they are capable of long life. I still have the first two sensors and the holes seem quite clear with no build-up of soot, but I will check and clean the current sensor if the mil light re-appears. I have also noticed that the hole on the second sensor is significantly larger than that on the first.
I haven't checked the boost. Maybe I could do this with TorquePro? As for fuel, I have mostly used Shell V-Power or BP Ultimate from new, but sometimes using another brand eg Texaco of super fuel, when first preferences unavailable.
Well, the mil light has returned, been cancelled, only to return on subsequent start-up. I will try cleaning the connector contacts, as that has worked before and if that doesn't work, I will try re-installing the previous sensor which had only been installed for 18 months and a few thousand miles.
I've just realised that this recurring sensor problem has only appeared shortly after I've removed and replaced the engine cover. My cars got a Om engine and has 2 exhaust temp sensors. One near the turbo and one upstream from the cat. Iv had both changed after i had a inlet manifold issue. The second one wasnt faulty it was caused by a dirty ECU plug.
Learn More.NTK - Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor
Tags: c om The issue can be fixed with a key cycle and I can continue my journey. Anything else I should be checking for? CooperOct 15, Check that the turbo actuator is working OK. Worth pulling off and opening, cleaning out all of the black dust on the gear wheels and lightly lubing them with a high temp grease. Check that no wires between the circuit board and the connectors have burnt out. Tip - put a bit of wire through the circlip on the arm before you take it off so you don't lose it into the engine bay.
The actuators can be re-furbed several companies offer the service but not replaced as they are matched to the turbo. Last edited: Oct 16, LarkoneOct 16, The current PCV valves have an updated orange seal at the turbo end which is an improvement on the old style.
Doug and Wighty like this. Should it be tight in there? And would the crack be the main issue? Also the fault occurred just before home today. CooperOct 16, Jim2 likes this. Think they were an older style.
I have glued the crack and cleaned everything up and reassembled. Jim2 and Wighty like this. WightyOct 16, Messages: 4, Likes Received: 1, Joined: Jan 2, Location: gainsboroughlincolnshire Your Mercedes: w cdir kland rover discovery 3insignia vxrshitron dispatch. WightyOct 17, Sounds like it might be worth taking the actuator off and looking at the issues Larkone suggested?
So to update, the fault has remained after fixing the cracked inlet. I will look into stripping the actuator for investigation at my earliest opportunity and also look into fuse